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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.